EMA vs MMA Monomer
- Koren Marisha Heron for Lavender Lady Nails
- Nov 14, 2016
- 4 min read
Does it Matter if it's EMA or MMA?
Not all monomers are the same. Some varieties have been linked to respiratory problems, severe allergic reactions, nail infections and deformities, and even permanent nail loss.
If you love your acrylic nails, know your monomers.
Quite simply put monomer is the liquid used in the application of acrylic nails.
There are two varieties of monomer used in acrylic nail application. EMA and MMA, one of which is prohibited for use in nail salons, but often still makes it's way in because it is many times cheaper and seemingly makes a stronger nail.
How Does Monomer Work?
Typically a sable brush is first dipped into the liquid monomer before being lightly dipped into the acrylic powder (aka polymer) and then applied to the nail. It is the combination of the monomer and polymer that results in the acrylic nail. Educated nail techs ensure that they only use EMA monomer for acrylic nails, but not every nail tech is aware of this. As a professional nail tech I have come across nail salons that do not ask for certification and sadly this is so that they can cut corners more easily.
What exactly is MMA Monomer
Methyl Methacrylate or MMA was added to monomers in the early 70's at the onset of acrylic nail craze, but by the late 70's the FDA recieved so many complaints that it took action against some MMA manufacturers. MMA is now approved for medical and dental applications, but not for cosmetic applictions such as acrylic nails because it sets too hard forming a super strong bond, and does not soak off with typical methods of removal, as well as a variety of other issues. Some people might think that hard nails are a good thing, arguing that they last longer. However when it comes to your nails, you actually need a little give. If your nails are too hard and the artificial nail has a super strong bond then they won't have pliability or break off safely when you accidently jam them into something, instead your whole finger nail can be pulled right out of it's root like in the pic below. Worse yet, the surface bond of MMA is so strong it doesn't take that much force to cause a break like this one. This person had to have her whole thumb nail removed, and it might never grow back.
MMA has been linked to a whole host of other problems too. Nail infections due to the above issue, permanent nail deformities, severe allergic reaction such as swelling redness and blisters around the nail.
The vapours are quite toxic too, even in small amounts and with long term exposure can actually cause heart valve, lung, and liver damage.
A mask won't help either as it only prevents you from breathing in the dust, not the fumes.
The fact is that MMA is not meant for nail applications and should never be found in a nail salon.
Unfortunately though, it can still be found in some salons that are more focused on the bottom line
rather than client and employee health.
What is EMA Monomer
Ethyl methacrylate or EMA is the active ingredient in today's monomers used in acrylic nail application. It is much safer, infact it is one of the most widely studied monomers to date and is deemed safe enough for commercial products as well, meaning the average consumer can now buy it in department stores and use it at home themselves. Unlike MMA, which requires course filing to prep the nail surface, EMA actually requires less manipulation of the nail plate to adhere, only the surface shine is buffed with a file. EMA nails easily soak off in 20 to 30 mins whereas MMA nails are often filed down with very coarse drilling.
How Can I Tell the Difference?
You can always ask, but truth be told salon owners know that MMA is prohibited so if they are using it they won't tell you and are most likely refilling name brand bottles with the cheaper product to conceal it's use. Your nail tech might not even know that she is using the harmful stuff.
Some clues of MMA use are:
Discount pricing for a full set of nails. A gallon of MMA Monomer can be as low as $10- $15 whereas EMA Monomer is closer to $200/gallon.
Distictively strong and different odor from regular acrylic nails
Nails that are very hard and difficult to file
MMA nails will rarely lift or break but will rather take the nail plate off the nail bed with enough pressure
Puffiness/ Redness/ Blistering of the skin around the nail not typical but can happen(allergic reaction)
MMA Nails take a very long time to soak off, if at all. EMA takes 20-30 minutes to soak off
If you are still unsure then there is a quick test you can do. Buff the shiny layer off the nail. Dip the whole nail in 100% acetone for 30 seconds remove and inspect.
The nail on the left is MMA Acrylic. It is still shiny and a little slimey but has not broken down in the least.
The Nail on the right is EMA Acrylic. It's begun to dull and is a bit tacky to the touch, and as you can see, even after only 30 seconds the acrylic has begun to break down.
This image is courtesy of Nuni Torres, an amazing nail artist in Miami.
MMA Out
It is up to you to ask the tough questions. Any good business operator will be happy to answer you in a polite and straightforward manner. If you are met with secretiveness or refusal to accomadate your request for information, than that is a sure fire sign to head for the door. As a student I tested a few places and was shocked when the owner of one salon actually yelled at me and chased me out of the shop simply for asking what they use. Acrylic Nails are perfectly safe and will not damage the natural nail if the right products are used and applied by a professional nail technician.
I want to know what you think, leave me your comments and questions below and don't forget to follow me on twitter @polish_police and like Lavender Lady Nails on facebook.
Caio for now,
Koren Marisha Heron
Lavender Lady Nails
